This is a half-drop, make-and-lose pattern. The stitch counts do not stay constant.

It is handy to know that:

Rows 1, 3, 9 and 11 use a multiple of 12 stitches plus 7 extra for the balanced edges.

Rows 5, 7, 13 and 15 use a multiple of 14 stitches plus 8 extra for the balanced edges.

These counts do not include your own selvedge stitches for seaming or extra stitches for borders.

I like to set up with a purl (wrong side) row just to get the knitting ready for the pattern, knitter's choice.

The pattern includes balanced edges. These centre the design and provide straight edges for both flat knitting and inserting panels.

If knitting in rounds with a continuous all-over lace design use just the repeating part of the pattern, written out separately for your convenience (below the main pattern). If using a straight panel within a circular piece then use the instructions for balanced edges.

If you find when you do a SK2P that the locking stitch (the one that lies on top on the right-hand side of the trio) stretches out more than you like then try one of these two slightly different working methods to see if one of them helps you.:

1. Slip 1 knit-wise, K2T but do not drop them off the left-hand needle just yet, pass the slipped stitch over the new stitch on your right-hand needle, now drop off the 2 stitches you knit together.

2. Slip 1 knit-wise, slip 2T knit-wise, insert the left-hand needle through all three just-slipped stitches so that you can now knit all three reoriented stitches together.

Gauge

Abbreviations
K	knit (if there is no number as well it means knit 1)
O	yarn over
T	together, (for example, K2T means knit 2 together)
SSK	Slip 1 knit-wise, slip another 1 knit-wise, insert the left-hand needle into the 2 just-slipped stitched from left to right so that you can now knit them together
SK2P	Slip 1, K2T, pass the slipped stitch over
x	Means to do whatever is in the preceding brackets a total of the stated number of times
9/3	Make 9 stitches from 3 thus: K3T, (O, K the same 3 together again) x 4. This forms the base of the flower. Ensure that you pull each of the 9 stitches up to an even, slightly tallish height as you make them. (See the picture, you might have to experiment a little to find a height that works just right for you.)
3/1	Make 3 stitches from 1 thus: (K, O, K) all into the same stitch, pulling the stitches up to the same height you use for 9/3.
M	Knit into the front and back of the stitch, pulling the stitches up to the same height you use for 9/3.
sts	stitches
*	An asterisk denotes the start of a repeating part of the pattern.

Instructions to include balanced edges
Use a multiple of 12 stitches, plus an extra 7 for balanced edges.

Row 1: K2, *K3, O, SK2P, O, K6. Repeat from * to the last 5 sts, K3, O, SSK.

Row 2: and all wrong side rows, Purl.

Row 3: M, 3/1, *SK2P, K3, SK2P, 9/3. Repeat from * to last 5 sts, SK2P, K2.

Row 5: K2, O, K3, *SSK, K, K2T, (K3, O) x 2, K3. Repeat from * to last 3 sts, SSK, K1.

Row 7: K2, O, K, O, SK2P, *(SK2P) x 2, O, K, O, K3, O, K, O, SK2P. Repeat from * to last 2 stitches, SSK.

Row 9: K2T, O, K3, *K6, O, SK2P, O, K3. Repeat from * to last 2 sts, K2.

Row 11: K2, SK2P, *9/3, SK2P, K3, SK2P. Repeat from * to last 2 sts, 3/1, M.

Row 13: K, K2T, *(K3, O) x 2, K3, SSK, K1, K2T. Repeat from * to last 5 sts, K3, O, K2.

Row 15: K2T, *SK2P, O, K, O, K3, O, K, O, (SK2P) x 2. Repeat from * to last 6 sts, SK2P, (O, K) x 2, K.

To finish end with a row 2 or 10.

Instructions for continuous circular designs
These are also handy for the flat instructions if you just want to clearly see what you keep repeating without having to go back to the * over and over and risk reading the wrong line.

Use a multiple of 12 stitches.

All even rounds: Knit.

Round 3: SK2P, K3, SK2P, 9/3.

Round 5: SSK, K, K2T, (K3, O) x 2, K3.

Round 7: (SK2P) x 2, O, K, O, K3, O, K, O, SK2P.

Round 9: K6, O, SK2P, O, K3.

Round 11: 9/3, SK2P, K3, SK2P.

Round 13: (K3, O) x 2, K3, SSK, K1, K2T.

Round 15: SK2P, O, K, O, K3, O, K, O, (SK2P) x 2.

To finish end with a round 2 or 10.